Sitka, Alaska
The City and Borough of Sitka is a unified city-borough located on the west side of Baranof Island in the Alexander Archipelago of the Pacific Ocean (part of the Alaska Panhandle), in the U.S. state of Alaska. With an estimated population of 8,986 in 2005, Sitka is the fourth-largest city by population in Alaska.The name Sitka (derived from Sheet’ká, a contraction of the Tlingit name Shee At'iká) means 'People on the Outside of Shee,' Sheet’-ká X'áat'l (often expressed simply as Shee) being the Tlingit name for Baranof Island.
History
Sitka was originally settled by the native Tlingit people. Old Sitka was founded in 1799 by Alexandr Baranov, the governor of Russian America. Baranov arrived under the auspices of the Russian-American Company, a 'semi-official' colonial trading company chartered by Tsar Paul I. In 1802 a group of Tlingit destroyed the original establishment known as Redoubt Saint Michael (an area today called the 'Old Sitka') and killed most of the Russian inhabitants. Baranov was forced to levy 10,000 rubles in ransom for the safe return of the surviving settlers.Baranov returned to Sitka in 1804 with a large contingent of Russians and Aleuts with the Russian warship Neva. The ship bombarded the Tlingit fort but was not able to cause significant damage. The Russians then launched an attack on the fort and were repelled by Tlingit fighters and marksmen. However, the Tlingit gunpowder reserves had been lost before the Russian assault and the Tlingit were forced to leave the fort. Following their victory at the Battle of Sitka the Russians established a permanent settlement in the form of a fort, named Novoarkhangelsk (Russian: Новоархангельск), or New Archangel, a reference to Arkhangelsk, the largest city in the region where Baranov was born. The Tlingit re-established a fort on the Chatham Strait side of Peril Strait to enforce a trade embargo with the Russian establishment. In 1808, with Baranov still governor, Sitka was designated the capital of Russian America.Cathedral of St. Michael, the seat of the Bishop of Kamchatka, the Kurile and Aleutian Islands, and Alaska was built in Sitka in 1848.The original church burnt to the ground in 1966, but was restored to its original appearance, with the deliberate exception of its clockface, which is black in photographs taken prior to 1966, but white in subsequent photos.Bishop Innocent of the Russian Orthodox Church lived in Sitka after 1840. He was known for his interest in education, and his house, parts of which served as a schoolhouse, the Russian Bishop's House has since been restored by the National Park Service. Swedes, Finns and other Lutherans worked for the Russian-American Company, and the Sitka Lutheran Church, built in 1840, was the first Protestant church on the Pacific Coast. After the transition to American control with the transfer of Alaska from Russia to the United States in 1867, influence of other Protestant religions increased, and St. Peter's-By-The-Sea Episcopal Church was consecrated as 'The Cathedral of Alaska' in 1900. There are twenty two buildings and sites in Sitka that appear in the National Register of Historic Places.Sitka was the site of the ceremony in which the Russian flag was lowered and the United States flag raised after Alaska was purchased by the United States in 1867 after the sea otter pelt trade died out. The flag lowering and raising event is re-enacted in Sitka every October 18 (Alaska Day). Sitka would serve as the capital of the Alaska Territory until 1906, when the seat of government was relocated north to Juneau. The state's first newspaper, The Sitka Times, was published by Barney O. Ragan on September 19, 1868.While gold mining and fish canning paved the way for the town's initial growth, it wasn't until World War II, when the Navy constructed an air base on Japonski Island (bringing 30,000 service personnel to the area), that Sitka finally came into its own. Today Sitka encompasses portions of Baranof Island and the smaller Japonski Island (across the Sitka Channel from the town), which is connected to Baranof Island by the O'Connell Bridge. The O'Connell Bridge was the first cable-stayed bridge built in the Western Hemisphere. Japonski Island is home to Sitka Rocky Gutierrez Airport (IATA:SIT, ICAO:PASI), the Sitka branch campus of the University of Alaska Southeast, Mt. Edgecumbe High School — a state-run boarding school for rural Alaskans, Southeast Alaska Regional Health Consortium's Mt. Edgecumbe Hospital, a U.S. Coast Guard air station, and the port and facilities for the USCGC Maple.The home rule charter of the City and Borough of Sitka was adopted on 2 December 1971 for the region of the Greater Sitka Borough, which was incorporated on 24 September 1963.
Geography
According to the United States Census Bureau, the borough is the second largest incorporated city by area in the U.S, with a total area of 4,811.5 square miles (12,461.7 km2), with 2,874.0 square miles (7,444 km2) being land and 1,937.6 square miles (5,018 km2) of it, or 40.27%, being water. Yakutat is the largest incorporated area in the U.S.Sitka displaced Juneau, Alaska as the largest incorporated city in the United States upon the 2000 incorporation with 2,874 square miles (7,440 km2) of incorporated area. Juneau's incorporated area is 2,717 square miles (7,040 km2). Jacksonville, Florida, is the largest city in area in the contiguous 48 states at 758 square miles (1,960 km2).
Climate
Sitka has anoceanic climate(KöppenCfb) with moderate, but generally cool, temperatures and abundant precipitation.
Average annual precipitation is 86.1 inches (2,190 mm); average seasonal snowfall is 30.9 inches (78 cm), falling on 233 and 19 days respectively.
The mean annual temperature is 45.0 °F (7.2 °C), with monthly means ranging from 34.9 °F (1.6 °C) in January to 57.2 °F (14.0 °C) in August.
Only 5.1 days per year see highs at or above 70 °F (21 °C); conversely, there are only 13 days with the high not exceeding freezing.
Extremes range from 0 to 88 °F (-17.8 to 31.1 °C), on January 15, 1971, and July 30, 1976, respectively.
Geology
Mount Edgecumbe, a 3,200-foot-tall dormant stratovolcano, is located on southern Kruzof Island. It can be seen on a clear day from Sitka.
Adjacent boroughs and census areas
Hoonah-Angoon Census Area, Alaska- north, northeast
Petersburg Census Area, Alaska- southeast
National protected areas
Alaska Maritime National Wildlife Refuge(part of Gulf of Alaska unit)Saint Lazaria Wilderness(formerlySaint Lazaria National Wildlife Refuge)
Sitka National Historical Park
Tongass National Forest(part)South Baranof Wilderness
West Chichagof-Yakobi Wilderness(part)
Economy
In 2008, Sitka's two largest employers were the South East Alaska Regional Health Consortium (SEARHC), employing 489 people, and the Sitka School District, employing 285 people. In 2005, after government and health industries, the seafood industry accounted for 13% of the jobs in Sitka and the tourism industry hired 11% of Sitka's workforce. Many Sitkans hunt and gather subsistence foods such as fish, deer, berries, seaweeds and mushrooms.In 2007, Sitka had a total labor force of 4,679. The per capita income in 2005 was $33,115.Sitka's power is generated by dams at Blue Lake and Green Lake, with supplemental power provided by burning diesel if usage exceeds the supply of water left in the lakes in the Spring.In 2010 a Texas company S2C Global Systems announced that it was moving forward with a plan to ship 2.9 billion to 9 billion gallons of fresh lake water a year from Sitka (Blue Lake) to the west coast of India. The deal would represent the world’s first regular, bulk exports of water via tanker. The water will be redistributed to places in India, southeast Asia and the Middle East. Sitka could earn up to $90 million a year in revenue.
Port
During Russian occupation, Sitka was a busy seaport on the west coast of North America, mentioned a number of times by Dana in his popular account of an 1834 sailing voyage Two Years Before the Mast. Sitka is the 6th largest port by value of seafood harvest in the United States. International trade is relatively minor, with total exports and imports valued at $474,000 and $146,000, respectively, in 2005 by the American Association of Port Authorities. The port has the largest harbour system in Alaska with 1,347 permanent slips.
Demographics
As of the census of 2000, there were 8,835 people, 3,278 households, and 2,219 families residing in the borough. The population density was 3.1 people per square mile (1.2/km²). There were 3,650 housing units at an average density of 1.3/sq mi (0.5/km²). The racial makeup of the borough was 68.50% White, 0.32% Black or African American, 18.57% Native American, 3.79% Asian, 0.35% Pacific Islander, 0.94% from other races, and 7.53% from two or more races. 3.28% of the population were Hispanic or Latino of any race. 1.87% reported speaking Tlingit at home, while 1.62% speak Tagalog, 1.05% Spanish, and 1.00% Ilokano.There were 3,278 households out of which 36.2% had children under the age of 18 living with them, 53.0% were married couples living together, 10.3% had a female householder with no husband present, and 32.3% were non-families. 24.5% of all households were made up of individuals and 5.4% had someone living alone who was 65 years of age or older. The average household size was 2.61 and the average family size was 3.15. In the borough the population was spread out with 27.2% under the age of 18, 9.4% from 18 to 24, 30.9% from 25 to 44, 24.1% from 45 to 64, and 8.4% who were 65 years of age or older. The median age was 35 years. For every 100 females there were 104.0 males. For every 100 females age 18 and over, there were 104.8 males. The median income for a household in the borough was $51,901, and the median income for a family was $62,361. Males had a median income of $40,037 versus $30,319 for females. The per capita income for the borough was $23,622. About 4.2% of families and 7.8% of the population were below the poverty line, including 9.2% of those under age 18 and 7.2% of those age 65 or over.
Transportation
Sitka's weather and location on the outer coast of the archipelago make transportation inherently difficult, expensive, and inconvenient.By air, Sitka Rocky Gutierrez Airport offers service from jet and regional carrier Alaska Airlines and charter and bush community carrier Harris Aircraft Services. Delays in fall and winter due to Sitka's weather are frequent. The airport is located on Japonski Island, which is connected to Baranof Island by the O'Connell Bridge. The O'Connell Bridge, completed in 1972, was the first vehicular cable-stayed bridge in the United States.Slower ferry travel is provided through the Alaska Marine Highway System. The ferry terminal is located seven miles (11 km) north of downtown. Sitka's location on the outer coast of Alaskan Panhandle is removed from routes run through Chatham Strait. This, in addition to the tides of Peril Straits that allow mainline vessels through only at slack tide combine to result in no designated service by a vessel and minimal service overall. However, the AMHS is often the mode of transportation of choice when the schedule proves convenient because of its much cheaper cost.Alaska Marine Lines, a barge and freight company, also has the ability to move cars to other communities connected to the mainland by road systems.The Sitka Tribe of Alaska offers public bus transit in conjunction with the Alaska Department of Transportation.In 2008, the League of American Bicyclists awarded Sitka the bronze level in bicycle friendliness making Sitka the first bicycle-friendly community in Alaska.
Colleges and universities
Sitka hosts one active post-secondary institution, the University of Alaska Southeast-Sitka Campus, located on Japonski Island in an old World War II hangar. Sheldon Jackson College, a small Presbyterian-affiliated private college suspended operations in June, 2007, after several years of financial stress.
Schools
The Sitka School District runs several schools in Sitka, including Sitka High School and Pacific High School, as well as the town's only middle school, Blatchley Middle School.Mt. Edgecumbe High School, a State of Alaska-run boarding high school for rural, primarily Native, students, is located on Japonski Island adjacent to University of Alaska Southeast.
Libraries
Kettleson Memorial Library is the public library for Sitka.It receives about 100,000 guests annually and houses a collection of 75,000 books, audiobooks, music recordings, reference resources, videos (DVD and VHS) as well as an assortment of Alaskan and national periodicals. Its annual circulation is 133,000.The library is well-known by visitors for its view. The large windows in front of the reading area look south across Eastern Channel towards the Pyramids.Until its closing, Sitka was also home to Stratton Library, the academic library of Sheldon Jackson College.
Other
The Alaska State Trooper Academy — the academy for all Alaska State Troopers — is located in Sitka.
Attractions
Sitka's many attractions include:Alaska Day
Alaska Raptor Center
Baranof Castle Hill
Naa Kahídi Dancerswho perform in theSheet'káKwáan Naa Kahídi
Russian Bishop's House
Saint Lazaria National Wildlife Refuge
St. Michael's Cathedral
Saint Peter's-by-the-Sea Episcopal Church
Sheldon Jackson Museum
Sitka Fine Arts Camp
Sitka Historical Museum
Sitka Jazz Festival
Sitka Lutheran Church
Sitka National Historical Park
Sitka Pioneer Home
Sitka Summer Music Festival
Swan Lake
Tongass National Forest
Whale Fest
The flora and fauna of Sitka and its surrounding area are also a notable attraction. Day cruises and guided day trips (hiking) are large enterprises in Sitka. Floatplane 'flightseeing' excursions are a breathtaking way to view the area's many sights from high above.
Outdoor opportunities
Sitka's unique position of being straddled between the Pacific Ocean and the most mountainous island in the Alexander Archipelago creates an abundant variety of outdoor opportunities:TheBaranof Cross-Island Trail, which leads to the small community ofBaranof Warm Springson the eastern side of the island, is a popular summer backpacking trip. Only serious and experienced backpackers, or those with an experienced guide, should undertake such a trip due to volatile weather conditions in the mountains and the required crossings oficefieldswithcrevasses.
The dormant volcanoMount Edgecumbeis also a popular mountain to summit and features a seven-mile (11 km) trail up to the top. Guided day-trips are available, but the trip does not require much knowledge to undertake.
The officially unnamed, but informally namedPeak 5390(the name is derived from its height in feet) is the highest point on Baranof Island and a demanding climb. Few people undertake this peak; those interested should consult with one who has summited previously.
Kayaking is a popular activity and small guided day excursions are offered locally. For longer trips, popular destinations include the Baranof Island-located outposts ofGoddardhot springs,Baranof Warm Springs,Port Alexander,Port Armstrong, orPort Walter.White Sulphur Hot Springs(on the western side ofChichagof Island) is also a destination for ocean kayakers. For locations closer to Sitka, U.S. Forest Service cabins are popular.
There are a number of maintained trails in the Sitka area, many of which are accessible from Sitka's road system. Popular trails includeIndian RiverTrail, Beaver Lake Trail, Mosquito Cove Trail, Harbor Mountain/Gavin Hill Trail, Redoubt Lake Trail,Mount VerstoviaTrail, and Shelikof Trail.
Print
Sitka is served by the Daily Sitka Sentinel, one of the remaining few independently-owned daily newspapers in the state. Sitka also receives circulation of the Capital City Weekly — a weekly regional newspaper based out of Juneau.
Radio
The public radio station KCAW and commercial radio stations KIFW and KSBZ fill the airwaves. Low-power FM radio station KAQU-LP 88.1 is owned by the City and Borough of Sitka, and broadcasts whale sounds from a submerged microphone at Whale Park.
Television
KTNL-TV (CBS) broadcasts out of Sitka on Channel 13 (Cable 6) serving Southeast Alaska. Additionally, KSCT-LP (NBC) Channel 5, KTOO (PBS) Channel 10 , and KJUD (cable-only ABC/CW) serve the region.
Notable residents
Richard Nelson, cultural anthropologist, writer, and activist
John Straley, award-winning author
Scott McAdams, 2010 Democratic U.S. Senate Candidate
Sister cities
Sitka has the following sister city:Nemuro, Japan
In books and films
Louis L'AmourpennedSitka, his fictional account of the events surrounding the United States' purchase of the Alaska Territory from the Russians for $7.2 million in 1867.
NovelistJames Michenerresided at Sitka'sSheldon Jackson Collegewhile doing research for his epic work,Alaska.
The1952 filmThe World in His Armshas Russian Sitka as one of its settings.
Sitka is the opening setting inIvan Doig's 1982 historical fictionThe Sea Runners.
Sitka is mentioned in Chapter 53 ofJames Clavell's 1993 historical fiction about JapanGai-Jin.
Mystery authorJohn Straleydescribed Sitka as '...an island town where people feel crowded by the land and spread out on the sea.'
Part of the action in the novelCésar CascabelbyJules Vernetakes place in Sitka in May–June, 1867 during the transfer of ownership to the United States.
A fictionalized Sitka, with a population in the millions and host of a fictional 1977World's Fair, is the setting of the alternate history detective storyThe Yiddish Policemen's Union, byMichael Chabon.
Sitka is a character in the 2003Disney animated featureBrother Bear.
Sitka is a setting used in the 2009Touchstone PicturesfeatureThe Proposal, although the scenes were filmed inRockport, Massachusetts.
General references
USSSitka(APA-113)
Sitka Tribe of Alaska
Russian Alaska
List of United States cities by area
Maritime Fur Trade
^ab'Annual Estimates of the Population for All Incorporated Places in Alaska'(CSV).2005 Population Estimates. U.S. Census Bureau, Population Division. June 21, 2006.http://www.census.gov/popest/cities/tables/SUB-EST2005-04-02.csv. Retrieved 2006-11-09.
^Joseph, Charlie; Brady, I.; Makinen, E.; David, R.; Davis, V.; Johnson, A.; Lord, N. (2001).'Sheet’kwaan Aani Aya'.Sitka Tribe of Alaska.http://www.sitkatribe.org/placenames/. Retrieved 27 October 2009.
^Sitka Lutheran Church.
^National Register of Historic Places, Sitka, Alaska
^Home Rule Charter of the City and Borough of Sitka
^Community/Borough Map: State of Alaska Department of Community and Economic Development
^abcd'Climatography of the United States No. 20 (1971–2000)'(PDF).National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration. 2004.http://cdo.ncdc.noaa.gov/climatenormals/clim20/ak/508494.pdf. Retrieved 2010-05-29.
^abcSitka, Alaska: 2008-2009 Community Profile.Sitka Economic Development Association. pp. 3.
^'S2C GLOBAL ANNOUNCES INDIA WORLD WATER HUB', July 7, 2010.
^ab'Alaska City Set to Ship Water to India, U.S. Company Announces', Circle of Blue, July 11, 2010
^Bunten, Alexis Celeste (2008). 'Sharing Culture or Selling Out?: Developing the commodified persona in the heritage industry'.American Ethnologist(American Anthropological Association)35(3): 382.doi:10.1111/j.1548-1425.2008.00041.x.ISSN 0094-0496.
^Table of 2005 U.S. Port Rankings by Foreign Commerce Cargo Value: American Association of Port Authorities
^'American FactFinder'.United States Census Bureau.http://factfinder.census.gov. Retrieved 2008-01-31.
^Modern Language Association:'Modern Data Center Results.'Retrieved May 3, 2007.
^Populstat:United States of America: Alaska: historical demographical data of the urban centers
^Alaska sister cities index
Andrews, C.L. (1944).The Story of Alaska. The Caxton Printers, Ltd., Caldwell, OH.
Fedorova, Svetlana G., trans. & ed. by Richard A. Pierce and Alton S. Donnelly (1973).The Russian Population in Alaska and California: Late 18th Century - 1867. Limestone Press, Kingston, Ontario.ISBN 0-919642-53-5.
Hope, Herb (2000) 'The Kiks.ádi Survival March of 1804.' In:Will the Time Ever Come? A Tlingit Source Book,ed. by Andrew Hope III and Thomas F. Thornton, pp. 48–79. Fairbanks, Alaska: Alaska Native Knowledge Network.
Naske, Claus-M and Herman E. Slotnick (2003).Alaska: A History of the 49th State.University of Oklahoma Press, Norman, OK.ISBN 0-8061-2099-1.
Nordlander, David J. (1994).For God & Tsar: A Brief History of Russian America 1741 - 1867. Alaska Natural History Association, Anchorage, AK.ISBN 0-930931-15-7.
Wharton, David (1991).They Don't Speak Russian in Sitka: A New Look at the History of Southern Alaska. Markgraf Publications Group, Menlo Park, CA.ISBN 0-944109-08-X.
Wilber, Glenn (1993).The Sitka Story: Crown Jewel of Baranof Island. 'Land of Destiny'—Alaska Publications, Sitka, AK.
Tlingit Geographical Place Names for the Sheet'ká Kwáan — Sitka Tribe of Alaska, an interactive map of Sitka Area native place names.
